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Café Martinique
Paradise Island Revival
The timeless elegance of
Café Martinique on Paradise
Island






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The timeless elegance of Café Martinique on Paradise Island
Recipes from this famed restaurant, which serves traditional French
cuisine with ultra-modern flourishes
Cited from DINING and ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE – NASSAU, CABLE BEACH,
PARADISE ISLAND - JAN 2006 EDITION
A stunning menu put together by the redoubtable Jean-Georges Vongerichten
and a talented protégé by the name of Michael Lewis, 28, is making the new
Café Martinique as well known for fine food as the original.
Gastronomes still lament the passing of the old Martinique, demolished in
the 1990s when Sol Kerzner was building Atlantis. The restaurant was renowned
not only for delicious food and white-glove service but also for being a
location in the 1965 James Bond thriller, Thunderball, starring Sean Connery.
(Connery, who lives a few miles away in tony Lyford Cay, has dropped by to look
around his new-old set but, by press time, had yet to show up for dinner.)
Food at Café Martinique is still traditional French but with some ultra-modern
flourishes. Lewis, in day-to-day control as executive chef, is unfazed by the
demands of producing perfect meals every day.
“Things are simple here,” he says. “Our goal is to give people an unforgettable
meal without any hassle.”
While Vongerichten’s name adds éclat to the new Martinique, the menu was a
collaborative effort. “We came up with many dishes together, and some are my
own creations,” says Lewis. He also creates all the specials and the amuse
bouches, which “reflect the style of Café Martinique,” as well as his own vision.
Pizza to petit fours
Dining and Entertainment Guide caught up with Lewis one warm winter afternoon in
Martinique’s elegant second-floor bar, overlooking three huge, gleaming yachts
tied up across the street in Marina Village.
Later, gourmets would debark to sample such delights as duck breast with baby
turnip, sautéed foie gras and honey wine sauce, or dorado en papillote –
a seasoned fillet of fish cooked in a parchment paper envelope with wild
mushrooms and truffle, opened tableside and served over a leek puree.
Unlike many who make it to the top in the culinary field, Lewis did not grow
up in the bosom of a food-loving family. But he did start cooking on his own as
a boy of 11 in Baltimore, MD.
“My mom was working so I would have to cook for myself – you know, macaroni and
cheese, pizzas. And I became bored with that so I started experimenting with
different ingredients – shiitake mushrooms, soy sauce, stuff like that ... I didn’t
realize where I was going, I was just cooking to feed myself.”
The next step came when he was a teenager working as a summer dishwasher at a posh
country club. Reassigned to the kitchen, he began cooking fries and remembers saying
to himself, “You know what? I think I should do this. This is fun.”
Lewis was not influenced by any one particular chef. “I had all the same cookbooks
that young chefs do, and I had the same heroes – the great French chefs of the past.”
He also lionized the top chefs who were and are making waves in the fiercely
competitive New York culinary scene.
Renaissance man
Lewis figures he came into the cooking world “at the perfect time.” He graduated
from the Culinary Institute of America at the end of 1998, a time when classic French
cuisine was still king.
But it was also the time when “a new movement was beginning to emerge.” Lewis
explained that chefs in the new era are “getting very technical and scientific”
about food, exploring the chemistry of taste and finding ways to combine foods to
produce surprising and unexpected flavours.
Some chefs before him are stuck in classic cuisines and others who came later don’t
want to learn traditional skills and flavours. As for Lewis, “I want to be the guy
who can do both” – a Renaissance man of the kitchen.
His first gig out of culinary school was at a ski resort in Colorado: “I wanted to
go somewhere where I could get one more snowboard season in before I buckled down.”
Buckle down he did, mentored by two of the best-known chefs in the Big Apple today:
David Bouley, owner of the highly acclaimed and eponymous Bouley, on West Broadway,
and then by Vongerichten, who owns Jean-Georges in the Trump building on Columbus
Circle (and other restaurants in New York and elsewhere). At Jean-Georges he rose to
become chef de cuisine before taking over at Café Martinique.
He loves being in The Bahamas and running the kitchen at Café Martinique. “I want to
take this place as far as it can go, so that a trip to The Bahamas wouldn’t feel
complete without having eaten here.” Here are some of the dishes Lewis hopes will
take Café Martinique to the top.
Market chopped salad
Shiitake mushrooms, quartered and roasted with olive oil, salt and pepper
Red radishes, cubed 1/4 inch
French beans, sliced 1/4 inch thick and blanched
Red and yellow cherry tomatoes, cut in half
Corn, kernels cut and blanched
Red finger chilli, shaved thin
Avocado, cubed 1/2 inch thick and coated with lemon juice
Scallion, shaved thin on bias
Cucumber, peeled, seeded and cubed 1/4 inch
Celery, peeled, blanched and sliced 1/4-inch thick
Baby carrots, peeled, sliced 1/4-inch thick and blanched
Fennel, cubed 1/4-inch and blanched
Green zucchini, sliced 1/4-inch thick, grilled with olive oil, salt and pepper
and then cubed
Apple, peeled and cubed 1/4-inch
Snap peas, cut in 1/2-inch cubes, blanched
Red bell pepper, roasted with garlic, thyme and olive oil, then cubed 1/4-inch
Yellow bell pepper, roasted with garlic, thyme and olive oil, then cubed 1/4-inch
Asparagus, peeled, cut in 1/2-inch pieces and blanched
Artichoke hearts, braised, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
Prepare vegetables and serve at room temperature, not too cold. Combine one small
spoon of each ingredient except for the finger chilli and the scallion, add only a
pinch of each of these. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a vinaigrette made
with 1 cup olive oil and 1 cup rice wine vinegar.
To serve: Combine micro greens with some of each herb. Season with salt, pepper
and vinaigrette. Place in center of bowl and spoon vegetables on top. Garnish with
parmesan cheese.
Coq au vin, chive spaetzle
(serves four)
2 4-lb chickens quartered
6 oz prosciutto medium dice
12 oz bacon cut in 1-inch lardon
3 oz butter
1-1/2 oz flour
1.5 L red wine
6 oz mushrooms (cleaned and quartered)
In two large skillets, sear seasoned chicken until golden brown (breasts in one,
legs and thighs in the other). Remove from pan, de-grease and add bacon and prosciutto.
Render fat till bacon is golden, add butter, cook till foamy then add flour and return
chicken to the skillets (still breasts in one and legs/thighs in the other). Mix all
until pasty. Add wine, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer. Simmer the breasts for
8-10 mins, remove from skillet and place in a Dutch oven. Transfer liquid to the skillet
with the legs and thighs and continue to cook them for 35 mins longer or until tender.
Place legs and thighs in Dutch oven with the breasts and cover with cooking liquid,
bacon and prosciutto. Sauté mushrooms in foamy butter, season with salt and pepper
and transfer to Dutch oven. Cool and reserve until served.
Spaetzle
8 oz chives, rough chop
4 oz parsley
8 oz milk
6 oz crème fraîche
4 tbsp salt
2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 nutmeg, grated
16 oz flour
12 eggs
Combine chives, parsley and milk in a blender with 2 tbsp salt. Purée until green and
smooth. Add crème fraîche and continue to purée until combined. Take 26 oz of purée,
add eggs and whisk until combined. (Reserve remaining purée for serving.) In a separate
mixing bowl combine dry ingredients including remaining salt. Whisk wet and dry
ingredients together. Cook spaetzle batter in boiling salty water till it doubles
in size, remove to an ice bath until cold, drain, oil and reserve until serving.
To serve: Sauté spaetzle in foamy butter until lightly golden. Add sliced scallions
and a small amount of water. Add 1 tsp chive purée and 1 tsp butter until emulsified
and creamy, then adjust seasoning and spoon onto plate. Put coq au vin in 350°F oven
for 10-15 mins. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
English lemon custard with vanilla sable cookies and fresh raspberries
(serves four)
Custard
2 oz lemon juice
9-1/2 oz crème frâiche
1/2 oz mascarpone (a soft mild Italian cream cheese.)
3-1/2 oz sugar
Juice the lemons.
In a saucepan, place the crème frâiche, mascarpone and sugar. Cook on medium heat.
When mix comes to a boil reduce heat and simmer 3 mins. Blend slowly adding the lemon
juice and pour into bowls. Chill for a least 3 hours.
Vanilla sable cookies
7 oz unsalted butter
2-1/4 oz salted butter
4 egg yolks
1/2 vanilla bean
10-1/2 oz flour
Bring the butters and the yolks to room temp. Cream the butter, sugar, vanilla beans
and the yolks just to combine. Add the flour by hand till combined. Cut into 8 oz pieces
and roll in tubes 1 inch diameter. Freeze. Brush with yolks and roll in vanilla sugar.
Cut into 1/4 inch disks and bake at 400°F for 5 mins.
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